How I make jewelry, Part III (cutting and wrapping)

Here I've cut out the backplates for 4 stones (2 necklaces).
I was quite amused when I began metalsmithing and
discovered how important Sharpies are to the process.

Once I've figured out what I'm making, the work begins.  This means busting out my sheet metal and wires so I can start creating the metal forms that make up my piece of jewelry.  The stabilizing piece of metal that holds everything together is called a backplate.  It's cut out of a piece of sheet metal.  I tend to use 26 gauge (lighter weight) sterling silver sheet metal if I'm making a big piece or earrings, and 22 gauge (heavier weight) for everything else.  I put the stone I'm using (or a stencil if I need a perfect shape) on the metal and trace out where I want to cut with a fine Sharpie.  Then I cut the shape out with metal shears.  If I wasn't a hack, I'd use a jewelry saw to cut out every shape (I tend to use the saw for detail work).  But I am a hack, and an impatient one, so I cut.  I usually need to hammer the metal flat on a bench block (a big slab of steel) afterward -- shears can make the metal curl up a little.

Trying to decide whether a 1/8" bezel or a 3/16" bezel
will work best with this variscite of varying heights.

Next is a bezel.  A bezel is the thin piece of metal that wraps around a stone and holds it onto the piece of jewelry.  The bezel needs to be very flexible so you can wrap it, plus push it slightly over the stone so it traps it place.  Therefore, bezel wire is made from fine silver, which is softer and more malleable than sterling.  We metalsmiths have many types of bezel wire.  I have it in several different widths, plus I have bezel wire with a jagged-tooth edge or a scalloped edge.  I tend to use the straight edge, however, because I like a simple look.  When creating a bezel, first I have to pick which height works best for my stone.  Cabochons (a stone with a flat bottom) are cut all different heights, depending on the characteristics of the stone.  A bezel has to cover the widest part of the stone, and then overlap that point slightly to hold it in place.  It can be tricky figuring out which bezel does this best -- especially if you have a stone of varying heights (not uncommon).  It can take a lot of eyeballing and measuring and bending and muttering.  But not swearing!  Noooo, we never swear at slathered.  Snicker.

Once I figure out what height bezel I need, I wrap it around the stone to determine how much of it I need.  Then I use my trusty Sharpie to mark where the bezel overlaps itself, and cut it.  Then I straighten the bezel (see how wavy it is in the picture?) with flat-nose pliers, fiddle with the wrap around corners until it's perfect, then file down and manipulate the ends until they touch perfectly -- no light showing through.  Then comes the best part:  BLOWTORCH.  Woo hoo!  I love melting stuff together.  So come back soon for Part IV.  You might get to see me accidentally burn my house down.